
We currently have 13 available. Quantity: Whole number only. Rear BUIS and RDS or HWS Use With Factory FSB:AR Front Sight Housing. Note: Gunsmithing of taper pins will be required. Upgrade your AR or start a new build with this AR-STONER A2 Front Sight Gas Block. The A2 Front Sight measures 2.25' high from the base of the gas line making it great for co-witnessing your rifle and the bayonet lug allows you to properly attach your favorite bayonet.
F Marked Front Sight Free Shipping On
These are referred to as “flat top” rifles (pictured right). Most orders less than 100 will ship via USPS.LBE Unlimited, Complete F Marked Front Sight Base, Taper Pins, Sight Post, Detent, Spring, Swivel, and Swivel Rivet - DK Sporting Goods - Americas.Most AR15 style rifles built in the past ten to fifteen years do not have a built-in carry handle / rear sight assembly, but rather a “ Picatinny rail” that allows the user to have a choice as to mount holographic sights, red-dot sights, magnified optics, simple rear sights, or even a removable carry handle / rear sight assembly. We offer fast, free shipping on every US order. Firearm Compatibility: AR-15. Includes front sight post and sling loop. Our Price: 30.00.F marked front sight base assembly for.
Your Price: 515.00 Out of Stock. BCM 16 Hammer Forged Mid-Length Govt Upper. The flat-top design allows you to mount your optics so that the aiming reticle is the same height above bore as the tradition fixed “iron sights”.Mil-Spec F-Marked Forged Front Sights Enhanced Light Weight (Fluted) HPT (High Pressure Test) Barrels MPI (Magnetic Particle Inspected) Barrels Related Items. This set the optics too high to take advantage of the 5.56x45mm NATO rounds fairly flat trajectory, and it set the optic too high for the shooter to get a good cheek weld on the stock.
In addition to the electronic optic your will want to add a quality rear backup sight that you can use in conjunction with the fixed front sight should your optic be damaged or the batteries die at an inopportune time. Some rifles are sold without the carry handle as manufactures realize that most end users will want to remove them to customize their rifles with optics and accessories.If you are going to use the rifle within 300 yards or meters then you will be served well with a quality red-dot sight (RDS) or holographic weapons sight (HWS). The front sight is a little higher than the A2 type.Some flat top rifles are sold with a removable carry handle that looks exactly like the older fixed carry handles, except that they can be easily removed with two knobs. They are matched to flat top receivers.
You will want your sights set at a distance that will provide the flattest trajectory, and thus the least deviation in point-of-aim and point-of-impact at varying distances. With your sights set to a “Battle Sight Zero” you will know that your rounds will hit no more than “X” inches above or below your point-of-aim from CQB distances out to “Y” yards or meters distance. HWS: Non-magnified holographic Weapons Sight.What Distance To Zero Your BUIS and Non-Magnified Optics: Battle Sight Zero = Set It And Forget It:Simply defined, “Battle Sight Zero” (sometimes referred to as “Battle Zero”, “BSZ”, or “BZ”) is a theoretical “set it and forget it” setting for your backup sights or non-magnified optics that will allow your to make combat effective hits out to a certain distance without applying any hold-over or hold-under from your point-of-aim. May or may not be “Mil-Spec” height.
The following diagram compares the trajectories of bullets when zeroed at 25, 50, and 100 yards. What Zero Distance Provides The Flattest Trajectory?:It is important to zero the elevation of the sights with a single setting that will take the most advantage of the flat shooting trajectory of the 5.56mm/.223 caliber rifle round. 223 Remington / 5.56mm NATO rifles, there is a distance that you can zero your rifle and enjoy a very flat trajectory out past 200 yards away.
The bullet departs the barrel approximately 2.5″ below the point of aim. The dash line represents the shooters point of aim. 100 Yard Trajectory:The first chart shows the trajectory of a 5.56mm NATO round when fired from an AR15 style rifle.
This is a TERRIBLE zero setting. This was traditionally done with adjustable rear sights, such as those found on rifle’s equipped with carry handles, set on the 300 meter setting, but the target set 25 meters away. 25 / 300 Meter Trajectory:The next graph represents the traditional military method of zeroing the rifle at 25 / 300 meters (meaning that you zero the rifle at 25 meters and can expect a second POA = POI at 300 meters). Not terrible, but you can do better. This isn’t a terrible zero if you never plan on shooting past 200 yards as the bullet will impact somewhere within the distance of the barrel to the top of the rifle’s sight base. The bullet then drops back down to 2.5″ below POA at 200 yards, and plummets drastically after that.
50 Yard Zero:The next graph illustrates the ballistic trajectory of a 5.56mm NATO round with a 50 yard zero (not meters). Do not use a 25 meter “set it and forget it” zero. The USMC has finally accepted that this isn’t the most efficient way to zero an AR15 / M16 style rifle. At 175 meters the bullet impact will reach its peak apology at roughly 6″ above your POA.
It will reach its peak apogy of 1.8″ at approximately 140 yards. At 100 yards it impact approximately 1.5″ high. The bullets trajectory will pass through the shooters point-of-aim at 50 yards. As with the graphs above, you can see that the bullet leaves the rifle 2.5″ below the point-of-aim (POA).
50 Yard, 25 / 300 Meters / 100 Yards Trajectory Comparison:The final graph compares all three trajectories. This data shows that on its flight from the rifle’s muzzle out to 250 yards, the bullet will hit somewhere within plus or minus the height of the rifles front sight base (+/- 2.5″). At 250 yards the round will impact approximately 2.5″ below POA.


With the majority of backup sight you can not adjust the elevation of the rear sight. If your optic is correctly zeroed then you won’t have to fire a single shot to zero your backup sights. Next you will zero your backup sights. You want to zero your optic first because it can be more finely adjusted than most backup sights. The sights and optic will then be considered “co-witnessed”.The easiest way to co-witness your optic and backup sights will be to carefully zero your optic first on the range so that your bullets are hitting exactly where you aim at 50 yards. With the optic and the backup sights properly installed and zeroed, it will look like the aiming dot of the optic is bisected by the top of the front sight post.
F Marked Front Sight How To Zero Your
Your optic has much finer adjustments than the BUIS. For further explanation, skip down to What Distance to Zero Non-Magnified Optics & Sights.If you are going to use a non-magnified red-dot or holographic optic, first zero your optic and then zero your BUIS. This will give you the flattest trajectory possible with 5.56mm (.223 Remington) ammunition fired from a rifle with sights that sit 2.4″ to 2.5″ above the center of the bore. Back to topHow To Zero Your BUIS and Non-Magnified Optics:If you use the front and rear backup sights exclusively, or use a non-magnified red-dot or holographic optic then you will want to zero your rifle so that the bullet impacts where you aim at 50 yards.
They won’t be perfect, but they will be close enough that you can continue the fight if your optic fails. Keep in mind that since the backup sights do not have as fine of adjustments as the optic that you might not be able to get the sights perfectly aligned with the optic. You don’t have to fire a shot to zero the backup sights, although prudence would suggest that you verify your zero on the range with your optic turned off. Adjust the backup sights so that the optic’s reticle dot is bisected by the tip of the front sight post. Zeroing your BUIS is as simple as looking through your deployed sights with your correctly zeroed optic turned on.
